One of the destinations in India I had not yet been and that evoked an emotional reaction from books I have read (like Life of Pi) and might have heard and seen at some point was Pondicherry at the Coromandel Coast. So this year, I decided to go and see.
I arrived in the former French colony and had booked a hotel in White Town/ French quarter. From there I could walk in 5 to 10 minutes to Rock beach and the Promenade where every evening lots of people went for a stroll or just hanging out. I usually started with a walk through the crafts market and then came to a big square that look out to the sea where a statue of Gandhi hi reminds everyone of the long way to independence.
While British controlled India became independent in 1947, most of the French territories remained with France for a couple of more years. In 1954, Pondicherry and the others joined India de facto. After agreements were signed with France in 1956 and their ratification in 1963, four French enclaves across India became a Union Territory with Pondicherry as its capital.
Before I went, I was told that there is no diving in Pondi as there are no natural reefs. When I arrived, in every street I could so an advertisement for diving. So I went to one of the dive shops and learned that the built artificial dive sites. I did a refresher course in the tank and then we went to the harbour: 6 people for DSD (discovery dive), a lady who did her OWD (open water diver) and I for a fun dive.
After 15-20 min going out on the sea, we anchored at the site and went down. This time it was a big step from the rear of the boat and I was in the water. The number of fish and diversity was amazing: sergeant major, Silver Moonies, angelfish, groupos, snappers, giant triggerfish, lion fish (dangerous), file fish, Emperor Angelfish, ... Thanks to the discovery divers we also had a camera man who made photos and videos of us.
Besides its French history, Pondi is very well-known for the ashram of Sri Aurobindo and lots of people come to learn and meditate here. Sri Aurobindo and a French woman called "The mother" founded nearby Auroville in 1968 - a spiritual but non-religious place dedicated to peace, sustainability and "divine consciousness". A central focal point is the Matrimandir that looks like a big golden Ferrero Rocher. Inside you can meditate if you received permission. Most of the visitor remain faraway with just a free ticket to view it from a platform in the scorching heat. Further, you can learn about the history and construction of Auroville, enjoy food and explore local crafts.
In the afternoon, I went for a yoga session close to Rock Beach - instead of the standard sun greetings I learned deep breathing exercises and a thorough warm up - all with the view of the ocean.
My last day in Pondicherry, I spent with a bicycle tour in the early morning going through different neighbourhoods, the bazaar, from cathedral to churches, to the sea, past the ashram and through the French quarter till we reached back to the starting point.
The tour was offered by the Sita cultural center that also offers many other classes. I had asked what the white flowery paintings on the pavement before the houses mean. These are kollams and are a welcoming message. As they offered a class in a couple of hours of Kollam, I decided to come back after a breakfast at the Café des Arts.
To do Kollams, our teacher explained you need focus and patience. And while our first trials did not resemble much, we got better and better throughout the 90 min course.
In the afternoon, I went spice, clothes and food shopping at the bazar before taking a break at a spa and getting a massage. I ended the day with a lovely dinner at La Villa.
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