After the karst mountains of Guilin and Yangshuo, my journey took me south again. I travelled by high-speed train via Guangzhou to Hong Kong, and although Hong Kong is part of China, arriving there felt surprisingly like entering another country.
At Hong Kong West Kowloon Station, you officially leave Mainland China and enter the Hong Kong Special Administrative Region. That means Mainland exit formalities followed by Hong Kong immigration. Suddenly I needed a new currency—the Hong Kong Dollar—and something else happened that I had been looking forward to: my Western apps worked again. After weeks behind the Great Firewall, Google, WhatsApp, Instagram and LinkedIn were suddenly back without a VPN.
One thing didn't change quite as dramatically as I had expected: language. I had somehow imagined that English would be everywhere in Hong Kong. While it is much more visible than on the mainland and getting around is generally easy, that doesn't mean everyone speaks English.
Wong Tai Sin – Temples among the skyscrapers
One of my first sightseeing stops was Wong Tai Sin Temple in Kowloon. The temple dates back to 1921 and is dedicated to Wong Tai Sin, a Taoist deity associated with healing and good fortune. Today, the complex combines Taoist, Buddhist and Confucian elements and remains an active place of worship in the middle of modern Hong Kong.
What I particularly liked was the contrast. One moment you're surrounded by busy streets and high-rise apartment buildings, and the next you're walking through colourful temple gates, incense smoke and traditional gardens.
Victoria Harbour – And the Star Ferry
Of course, no first visit to Hong Kong would be complete without Victoria Harbour. Standing on the Kowloon waterfront and looking across towards Hong Kong Island gives you that classic skyline you've seen countless times in films and photographs.
But I didn't just look at the harbour—I crossed it several times aboard the famous Star Ferry. The short ferry ride between Kowloon and Hong Kong Island became one of my favourite ways of getting around. Rather than disappearing underground on the MTR, you get a few minutes on the water with fantastic views of the skyline on both sides.
Sometimes public transport is a sightseeing attraction in itself.
Hunting Hong Kong's skyscrapers
Hong Kong's skyline was one of the reasons I wanted to visit, and I had several specific skyscrapers on my list.
The biggest was International Commerce Centre (ICC) in West Kowloon. During its development it was known as Union Square Phase 7, which was the name I originally had on my list. At 484 metres, it is the tallest building in Hong Kong. Normally, the Sky100 observation deck on the 100th floor provides panoramic views across the city, but unfortunately it was closed for renovation while I was there.
Across Victoria Harbour stands Two International Finance Centre (2IFC). At around 416 metres, it is Hong Kong's second-tallest building and the tallest on Hong Kong Island. There was a bonus here: on the 55th floor is the Hong Kong Monetary Authority Information Centre. Admission is free, and besides learning something about Hong Kong's currency and financial system, you get a great elevated view of the city without paying for an observation deck.
Also on my list was Central Plaza, the distinctive tower in Wan Chai. At approximately 374 metres, it is Hong Kong's third-tallest building.
And then there is the unmistakable Bank of China Tower, designed by I. M. Pei. Rising to 367 metres, its geometric façade makes it one of the easiest buildings to recognize in Hong Kong's crowded skyline.
I had seen all of these buildings in photographs before coming to Hong Kong. Spotting them one after another from the harbour, ferries and streets made walking around the city almost feel like a skyscraper treasure hunt.
Victoria Peak – Going even higher
For the classic view, however, there is Victoria Peak. From up here, Hong Kong's geography suddenly makes much more sense: the dense forest of skyscrapers squeezed between steep green mountains and Victoria Harbour, with Kowloon stretching out on the other side of the water.
View from Victoria Peak
Hong Kong is one of those cities where the skyline is an attraction in itself, and seeing it from the Peak was definitely on my must-do list.
Afternoon tea at The Peninsula
There was one Hong Kong tradition I particularly wanted to experience: afternoon tea at The Peninsula. The hotel itself is part of Hong Kong history. The Peninsula opened in 1928, strategically positioned close to the old Kowloon-Canton Railway terminus and the docks where international travellers arrived. It quickly became one of the city's great social meeting places, with afternoon tea developing into one of its signature traditions.
Almost a century later, that tradition is clearly still popular. I had to queue for around 30 minutes, and while waiting I started talking to a German lady who was also travelling on her own. Rather than each of us waiting for a separate table, we decided to have afternoon tea together.
It turned out to be a great decision. We had a lovely conversation, enjoyed the experience together—and saved some money by sharing.
The food was excellent, but what impressed me just as much was how meticulously the staff dealt with my food intolerances. They made sure I knew exactly what I could eat and adapted the experience accordingly. At a place like The Peninsula you expect excellent service, but this really stood out.
Sometimes the best travel encounters happen while you're standing in a queue.
Meeting and eating with friends
Hong Kong was also very much about food. One of my favourite meals was some excellent sushi at Sushi Ocean, but the more interesting culinary experiences came thanks to local friends. One of the advantages of being part of the AIESEC network is that there seem to be friends almost everywhere—and three of them made sure I experienced different sides of Hong Kong food.
Michelle introduced me to filled egg waffles, fruit tea, roasted goose and roasted pork belly. We even finished with dessert from a French shop in the mall—a suitably international ending to a very Hong Kong food experience.
On Sunday, I met Herb for lunch at a Chinese restaurant packed with local families. We joined them in the Sunday lunch tradition and, among other things, had dumplings.
Cliff, Chris, Herb - happy faces after lunch
And with Maggie, it was time for morning tea, giving me yet another introduction to the way locals eat and meet in Hong Kong.
After several weeks travelling solo, sharing meals and conversations with friends was a welcome change—and a much better introduction to local food than simply choosing dishes from a menu by myself.
A little bit of work – Speaking with Confidence
Hong Kong wasn't entirely a holiday stop. I also had the opportunity to meet colleagues from S&P Global WINS – Women's Initiative for Networking and Success and run a mini workshop on “Speaking with Confidence.”
It was a nice change of perspective. One day I was a tourist photographing skyscrapers and temples; the next I was discussing how to communicate confidently and make your voice heard. Being able to combine travelling with meeting colleagues and sharing something I'm passionate about made Hong Kong feel a little different from the other stops on my China trip.
Hong Kong to Shenzhen – 18 minutes, plus immigration
My next destination was Shenzhen, just across the border in Mainland China. The actual high-speed train journey from Hong Kong to Shenzhen takes only about 18 minutes. Getting onto that train takes considerably longer. At West Kowloon, I went through the first ticket and passport checks, walked through the enormous station, completed Hong Kong exit formalities and then passed through Mainland Chinese immigration—all before boarding the train.
As a foreign passport holder, I also had to complete the electronic arrival information again before entering Mainland China. My advice is to allow at least 40–60 minutes at West Kowloon for all these procedures before your train departs. The train ride itself can be shorter than the process of getting onto it.
And I certainly wasn't the only person crossing the border. Cross-border travel has become part of everyday life in the region. Many Hong Kong residents head north to Shenzhen for cheaper groceries, restaurants, entertainment and spas, while traffic also flows in the opposite direction.
Mainland visitors come to Hong Kong for many reasons, including shopping. Hong Kong has no general VAT or sales tax and is a free port, which can give it a price advantage for luxury goods compared with Mainland China. So while Hongkongers may head to Shenzhen looking for bargains on everyday life, Mainland shoppers can cross in the other direction looking for luxury brands.
Two cities, two economic systems—and only an 18-minute train ride between them.
Hong Kong – China, but different
After weeks in Mainland China, some things suddenly felt familiar again: Western apps worked, English appeared everywhere, international food was easy to find and the city had a noticeably different rhythm.
At the same time, Hong Kong has its own very distinct identity—a mixture of Chinese traditions, British influences, Cantonese culture, global finance and one of the world's most recognizable skylines.
In just a few days, I went from incense at Wong Tai Sin Temple to skyscrapers above Victoria Harbour, crossed the water on the Star Ferry, enjoyed afternoon tea at one of Asia's most historic hotels, discovered local food with AIESEC friends and even squeezed in a workshop.
Then it was time to cross the border once more.
Before leaving Hongkong for Shenzhen, however, there was one more border to cross - and one more very different side of China to explore: Macao.
