Xian: drums, bells, a mosque and the Terracotta Army

I arrived by train and took line 2 to the bell and drum towers and followed the instructions of my hostel leading me through the Muslim quarter.  

 

 Central Square with Bell Tower

 

My hostel was nice - quite hidden away - and I booked a room that offered a four people bed. It was a masonry base covered with a mattress - it was good and hard. 

 

 

My hostel at the end of the alley

 

 

The biggest bed I ever slept in

 

In the evening, I explored the Great Mosque - a lovely example of Chinese Muslim architecture and art fusion. The mosque was built in 742 AD and the several courtyards give it a secluded feeling. 

 

Wodden Memorial Archway and Stone Memorial Gateway 

 

 

The Minaret - different from the Minarets I have seen so far

 

  

other impressions from the courtyards 

  

 

The Phoenix Pavillion and the Mosque

Next were the Drum and Bell Towers that stand at opposite ends of the square. As the name says one has drums, the other bells. They were used for time info: morning (bell) and evening (drum). The building style is similar as both were built just 4 years apart in the Ming dynasty (built between 1380 and 1384).

 

 

Drum Tower 

 

Bell Tower 

 Bell Tower in the middle of a roundabout 

(access via underground walkway)

The next morning, I took a DiDi (Chinese Uber) to the Terracotta Army, that is about 40 km outside of the city. Arriving I had to wade through a sea of guides who offered their services and look for the entrance. Checking in with my passport, I paid 5 yuan for the electric shuttle to the next ticket check and finally was in. 

The Terracotta Army

In 1974, farmers drilling a well discovered the Terracotta Army and then excavation started. There are three pits with figures and an exhibition hall to visit. The army was created to guard emperor Qin Shi Huang in the afterlife.

 

Pit 1  

 

Pit 1 is the biggest (more than 200 m long), most impressive and also the most crowded. It’s usually the one featured in photos. After a quick look from the front, I moved along the side and tried to avoid the big groups to get some better glimpses. The infantry, chariots, and horses are lined up in precise military ranks, offering a remarkable glimpse into the military organisation of Emperor Qin Shi Huang's army.

 

 

Standing in neat rows: soldiers and horses 

  

restaurated soldiers

Pit 2 is L-shaped and contains more than a thousand figures of soldiers and horses. Most of them smashed and covered by the mud of time. Excavation is still ongoing and some of the reconstructed soldiers are displayed around the pit. This pit is known for its diversity of military units that would have fought together.

 

 

Rich in detail 

Pit 3 is the smallest of the three pits and is believed to have served as the command headquarters for the entire Terracotta Army. It contains just 68 warriors, a ceremonial chariot, and several horses. Unlike the larger battle formations in the other pits, the layout suggests this was where high-ranking officers directed military operations, making it an important piece of the overall complex.

 

 

Pit 3 - Command Centre 

What makes the Terracotta Army so remarkable is the incredible individuality of the figures. Each warrior has unique facial features, hairstyles, and expressions, demonstrating the extraordinary craftsmanship of ancient Chinese artisans. Standing before the excavation pits is an unforgettable experience and offers a glimpse into the ambition and power of China's first emperor.

When you exit the pit area, you cannot return the same way as you came. Instead you are led through an entertainment park of streetfood, restaurants and souvenir stalls. It takes significant time to return to the entrance and hand back your audioguide. There is also a shuttle bus station to the mausoleum.

 

 

 

Part of the Entertainment Park on the way to the exit 

Located about 1.5 kilometres west of the Terracotta Army pits is the Mausoleum of Qin Shi Huang, the burial site of China's first emperor. Constructed over nearly 40 years by hundreds of thousands of workers, the massive earthen mound conceals what is believed to be an elaborate underground palace. Ancient historian Sima Qian described the tomb as containing rivers of flowing mercury, a ceiling decorated with the stars, and intricate mechanisms designed to protect it from intruders. Although scientific surveys have detected unusually high mercury concentrations in the surrounding soil, the central burial chamber has never been excavated. Archaeologists continue to leave it undisturbed until preservation techniques are advanced enough to protect its priceless contents.

 

Battery Bus Ticket

 

The area is even vaster than the one of the army and I highly recommend to pay the 15 yuan (less than 2€) for the battery bus driving you up to the different buildings of interest and pick you up on the other side of it. 

One of the highlights of the mausoleum complex is the Bronze Chariots Exhibition Hall. This modern underground museum houses two exquisitely crafted half-size bronze chariots and their teams of horses, discovered in 1980 just west of the emperor's tomb. The chariots were found shattered into thousands of pieces and took many years to painstakingly restore. Today they are regarded as some of the finest bronze artefacts ever unearthed in China, with astonishing detail in the harnesses, umbrellas, decorations, and even the facial expressions of the horses. Many visitors consider this exhibition to be every bit as impressive as the Terracotta Army itself, so it is well worth allowing extra time to explore it. 

 

Reconstructed chariots 

After an exhausting day, I returned to Xi'an and got a glimpse at the Giant Wild Goose Pagoda. Built in 652 AD during the Tang Dynasty, it was constructed to house Buddhist scriptures brought back from India by the famous monk Xuanzang and remains an important symbol of the city's rich Buddhist heritage.

 

Giant Wild Goose Pagoda

Later wandered through the Muslim quarter, haggled a bit for souvenirs and a power bank in Huajue Alley - a charming pedestrian street lined with traditional buildings, local food stalls, and small shops. I ended the day with a foot bath and massage.

 

Entrance to Huajue Alley

 

Relaxing from all the walking with a foot bath and massage

 

The next morning, I returned to the train station to go to Yichang for my Yangtze river cruise.

 

 

 

Beijing: My first taste of China

Beijing was my first stop on my journey through China, and it couldn't have been a better introduction to the country. As China's capital, it combines centuries of imperial history with the energy of a modern global city. What made the visit even more special was being shown around by my colleague, Cassie. Having a local guide transformed the experience, taking me beyond the typical tourist attractions and helping me experience the city through the eyes of someone who calls it home.

She even picked me up from the airport and immediately helped me get oriented—making sure I had all the necessary apps installed, explaining how to use them, and setting everything up so I could actually navigate daily life in China. On more than one occasion, when we ran into issues that we couldn’t solve between us, she patiently called local hotlines and sorted things out. It quickly became clear that without deep local knowledge, handling even basic logistics would have been extremely difficult as a foreign visitor.

Apps you need:

• WeChat & Weixin Pay (chat app & payment)
• AliPay (Payment, MiniPrograms for tickets, Public transport cards)
• Amap (like Google Maps but working in China)
• DiDi (like Uber)
• Railway 12306
• Trip.com
• VPN app
• Translate (Apple works great)

In the afternoon, we started with a walk through South Luogu Lane (Nanluoguxiang), one of Beijing’s most atmospheric hutong districts. The narrow alleyways were already lively, lined with traditional courtyard houses now filled with cafés, small shops and local boutiques. The main road felt quite crowded and touristy, but somewhere in the middle we found a side street with a nice café with a view on the Hutong roofs. There, it was easy to imagine how life here might have looked in older Beijing.

Overview of the area - nothing is small in China

First impressions

Finding a calm space and 

enjoying a tea with a view on the Hutong roofs

On the way to the Peking duck

After wandering through the hutongs, we went for my first proper meal in the city: a traditional Peking duck dinner. Watching the chef carve the duck into different pieces, and then wrapping the crispy skin with pancakes, cucumber and sweet bean sauce, was an experience in itself—and an excellent introduction to Beijing cuisine.

 

Peking Duck Dinner

The following day was dedicated to imperial history. We started at Zhongshan Park, a peaceful green space just beside Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City. While there big crowds lining for the security check at Tiananmen Square, the park offered a calmer rhythm—locals wandering around, singing, and enjoying the shade of ancient trees.

 

The upper hand shows where Zhongshan Park is on Tianamen Square

From there we entered the Forbidden City, a place that had long been on my list. No matter how many photos or maps you see, nothing quite prepares you for its scale. Courtyard after courtyard opened up into vast ceremonial spaces and intricately decorated halls. 

Rather than staying solely on the main central axis, we also explored the quieter Western Palaces, where many of the emperor's consorts and members of the imperial householc once lived. Away from the largest crowds, these elegant courtyards and residential buildings provided a more intimae glimpse into life within the palace walls, making it easier to imagine the routines and intrigues of the imperial court. 

 

 

After the Meridian Gate (south),

 

you cross one of the five bridges and slowly get an impression how vast the Forbidden City is.

 

Hall of Supreme Harmony and Hall of Preserving Harmony 

 

 

Various animals guarding the buildings - 

either on the ground or on the rooftops 

 

 

 

 

Throne and private chambers of the Emperor

 

In the afternoon, we took a break at a café with a great tasting menu of cakes and desserts accompanied by tea and coffee. We missed the timing for the treasury but enjoyed a leisurely walk through the garden.

Dessert menu of the Palace Café - 

I liked the ones with litchi, matcha and chocolate

 

View across the roofs to Jingshan Park

 

One of the most striking modern contrasts was seeing visitors dressed in elaborate traditional clothing for photographs. 

Many were wearing beautifully styled hanfu, and Cassie was able to identify the historical influences behind the outfits—explaining whether they were inspired by the Han, Tang, Song or Ming dynasties based on subtle differences in cut, embroidery and silhouette. It added an unexpected cultural layer to the experience.

 

 

 

After leaving the palace, we climbed Jingshan Park, where the view over the Forbidden City rooftops was one of the highlights of the entire trip. The roads around the forbidden city and the park were quite congested and we walked sometime before getting to a bus stop.

 

View on the Forbidden City 

roofs from Jingshan Park

 

 

Building in Jingshan Park

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Later, Cassie introduced me to a local hotpot restaurant near Gulou Dongdajie, where we cooked meat, vegetables and noodles in a bubbling shared broth. Each of us created our own sauces, mine based on soy sauce, oil, garlic and spring onions. It was relaxed, social and one of the most enjoyable meals of the trip.

Beautiful scenery

 

Filling up the hotpot with hot water, reaping what we sow (cooked)

 

One of the absolute highlights was visiting the Great Wall of China at Badaling. We travelled by high-speed train, which made the journey surprisingly smooth, and then took a cable car up to the wall. We explored Sections 7 and 8, a higher and more scenic stretch of the restored wall. The climb between watchtowers was steep in places, but each section rewarded us with sweeping mountain views as the wall disappeared across the ridgelines. Even with visitors around, there were quiet moments where it was possible to stop and appreciate the sheer scale and ambition of the structure.

 

 

Arriving by train and cable car was cutting the trip shorter as we spent already waiting quite some time for the train. Also the day was very hot despite the greyish sky. 

 

 The Great Wall

 

With my new Great Wall basecap

My visit also included time at the S&P Global Beijing office, where it was wonderful to finally meet colleagues in person after so many virtual meetings. Cassie continued to be an incredible host, and I also met Jia, as well as reconnecting with my former mentee. We had great conversations and Jia, Cassie and I had lunch downstairs in the mall. Besides another round of Peking duck, this time with fizzy powder, we had ordered a couple of other dishes: shrimps with potato decoration, lotus root & pear dessert, chocolate donkey rolls (dessert), ... I especially liked this version of Peking duck, the shrimps and donkey roll.

Peking duck, pancakes, cucumber, broccoli

Lotus root & pear dessert, Shrimps hidden under potatoes

my favourite dessert: chocolate donkey rolls

Despite the rain, taking a walk around the block after lunch.

Before leaving for Xi’an, I visited the Temple of Heaven, one of Beijing’s most iconic cultural sites. The Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests is as impressive in person as it appears in photographs, but what stood out just as much was the surrounding park. The sheer size was impressive and made us walk a lot between the different sites.

Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests

 

Looking back, Beijing was the ideal introduction to China. It offered imperial grandeur, incredible food, vibrant neighbourhoods and, just as importantly, the warmth and generosity of the people I met. Having Cassie as my guide made it possible to navigate not only the city’s landmarks, but also its everyday realities.

As I boarded the high-speed train for Xi’an, Ithe adventure started for real. If Beijing was a window into China’s imperial power and modern pace, Xi’an would take me even deeper into its ancient origins.