Friday, May 29, 2026

Crossing China by High-Speed Train

Travelling across China by high-speed train is hard to compare with anything in Europe. Germany has around 1,600 kilometres of high-speed railway lines, while China's network has grown to more than 48,000 kilometres—the largest in the world. In many parts of the country, trains travel at speeds of up to 350 km/h (217 mph) and connect cities thousands of kilometres apart with remarkable punctuality.

 

 
Henan

 

Instead of flying between destinations, I chose to travel almost exclusively by train. From Beijing to Xi'an, Chengdu, Guilin and beyond, the journeys became part of the adventure. The stations may feel more like airports, but once you're on board, travelling is comfortable, efficient and surprisingly relaxing.

 

 
Let's go real fast
 

If you're planning your own trip to China, here's everything I learned about booking tickets, navigating the stations and making the most of the world's largest high-speed rail network.

How to book

You can book online using the official Railway 12306 app or Trip.com. There are some differences between the English and Chinese versions of 12306. The English version has fewer features, while Trip.com offers a more user-friendly interface for international travellers.

 

 Railway 12306: Official booking platform. Best for booking individual train tickets. Seat preferences cannot be selected in the English version. 

Trip.com: Charges a service fee (I paid between €2–6 per train), displays connecting journeys, lets you book the entire trip in one go, and allows you to choose a window or aisle seat.


You need your passport both for booking and travelling, as every ticket is linked to your passport number.

If you make a booking mistake or realise you're going to miss your train, you can usually change your booking once free of charge.

 

 

Direct or connecting?

When booking train tickets, my rule of thumb is usually the same as for flights: if there's a direct connection, take it. However, China taught me that this isn't always the fastest option.

I missed my last direct train from Hangzhou to Suzhou and had to look for alternatives. Although the two cities aren't that far apart, the remaining direct trains were relatively slow. Instead, I booked one train from Hangzhou to Shanghai and another from Shanghai to Suzhou. Even with the transfer, I arrived earlier than I would have on the direct train.

If you're flexible, it's worth checking connecting journeys. Thanks to the frequency of China's high-speed rail network, a transfer in a major hub like Shanghai can sometimes save a surprising amount of time.

 

 
12306 Ticket - see the refund and change options

 

Understanding train types

When searching for connections, you'll notice that every train number starts with a letter. For most travellers, the three most common types are G, D and C.

  • G (Gaotie) – The fastest high-speed trains, operating at speeds of up to 350 km/h. They connect major cities such as Beijing, Shanghai, Xi'an and Guangzhou with few intermediate stops.
  • D (Dongche) – High-speed trains travelling at up to 250 km/h. They usually make more stops than G trains and also serve many regional routes.
  • C (Chengji) – Intercity high-speed trains connecting neighbouring cities, for example Beijing–Tianjin, Chengdu–Mianyang or Shanghai–Suzhou. They are designed for shorter journeys and frequent departures.

You'll also come across Z (Direct Express), T (Express) and K (Fast) trains. These are conventional trains that generally run on the classic railway network rather than dedicated high-speed lines. Unless you're looking for an overnight journey or travelling to a destination without high-speed service, you'll most likely be using G, D or C trains during your trip.

Travel classes

On most high-speed trains, you can choose between up to four travel classes:

  • Second Class: 3+2 seating (A, B, C + D, F), the standard and most popular option.
  • First Class: 2+2 seating with more legroom and wider seats. Complimentary water and a snack are often provided, depending on the route.
  • Premium/VIP Class: Available only on some trains. Usually features a small, quieter compartment with 2+1 seating and costs slightly more than First Class. If a train offers VIP Class, it usually doesn't have Business Class.
  • Business Class: 2+1 airline-style reclining seats with generous personal space. Complimentary snacks and drinks are often included. Usually around twice the price of First Class.

 

Let's take a seat in Business Class and relax

At the railway station

Some high-speed railway stations are located as far outside the city as an airport. And with some cities, it feels like monopoly as they have so many railway stations. Make sure you are heading to the one indicated on your ticket. A lot of them are named after the four cardinal directions: DONG - East, NAN - South, XI - West, BEI - North.

That's not the only similarity. You'll go through passport or ID checks, security screening, departure halls and boarding gates before reaching your train. Make sure you're in the departure hall before looking at the departure boards, otherwise your train may not be listed.


 
Police Patrol Robot

Arrive at least 30–45 minutes before departure. Stations can be enormous and you'll need time for passport control, security and boarding. Boarding gates usually close five minutes before departure, and during my trip the trains were incredibly punctual. Nearly every train I took departed exactly on time or even a minute early.

As your ticket is linked to your passport, keep it handy. Chinese passengers usually pass through the automatic gates using their national ID cards, while foreign travellers should look for the staffed lane. The attendant will enter your passport number manually, so you may have to point out where to find it.

 

 
Security Check & Departure Hall with waiting seats

 

 
One level up, you find your favorite Fast Food: McDonalds, KFC, ChaPanda, Chagee, ...


Next comes the security check. My Swiss Army knife was inspected several times but never confiscated. After the second inspection I simply kept it easily accessible. Security staff may also ask to inspect your drinks, but I was always allowed to keep them.

  


Once through security, check the departure board for your platform. 

 

 
What it says: Red - cancelled, Green - Boarding/ Ticket Check, White - Wait

 

If you are travelling business class, you have access to the business lounge where you will be treated to free coffee/ tea and snacks and nicer seats than in the general waiting hall. You might even have a direct access to the platforms and do not need to queue at ticket boarding gate. That was a very pleasant surprise.

 

Business Lounge - 
they will even let you know when you should leave for boarding 
  

 

At the boarding gate you'll either scan your passport or show it to the attendant before taking the escalator down to the platform. 

 

That's also where I encountered most of the smokers during my trip through China.

If your train is already waiting, you'll immediately see where your carriage stops. Otherwise, markings on the platform indicate where each carriage will arrive depending on the train type and direction of travel. Simply wait at the correct position and board when the train arrives.

 

On the train

There are luggage racks at the end of each coach, and smaller suitcases fit comfortably in the overhead racks above the seats.

Every seat has a number matching your ticket. At the foot of each seat you'll find a pedal that unlocks the seat, allowing it to rotate 180 degrees. This ensures passengers always travel facing the direction of travel. I even saw a group of four friends turn their seats towards each other to create a table for a card game.

 

 
Turn the seat

 

Electronic displays show the current speed, which often exceeds 300 km/h. Most trains have a snack trolley, while some longer-distance services also feature a café or dining car.

 

Coach number, speed, temperature, time, non smoking

 

After departure, attendants or railway police may walk through the train with handheld inspection devices. Additional cameras are also installed inside each carriage.

Toilets are located near the doors at the end of each coach, together with a free hot water dispenser. The toilets are available in both Western and squat style.

 

 
left: western - right: squat

 

If you're travelling in First Class, Business Class or VIP Class, complimentary water and snacks are often served. During my journeys, the snack box sometimes included nuts, crackers, cookies, spicy tofu and pressed fruit slices. Occasionally, orange juice or cola was served as well.

 

All my snack boxes - only once I did not receive one 


Later in the journey, staff usually offer additional snacks and drinks for purchase, including chocolate bars, yoghurt drops and instant noodles. If you buy instant noodles, simply add hot water from the dispenser.

Cleaning staff regularly walk through the train collecting rubbish. Sometimes they carry a trash bag, other times they simply look for empty bottles or food wrappers.

 

In First Class, the folding table is either built into the armrest or attached to the seat in front of you. The armrest also contains power outlets with Chinese sockets as well as USB-A and, on many newer trains, USB-C ports. 

 

Some trains advertise onboard Wi-Fi, but access often requires a Chinese phone number and doesn't always work reliably for foreign visitors. Since I had a Chinese SIM card with plenty of data, I never needed to use it.

 

 

Arriving

After arriving, you'll usually head downstairs to the exit, where you'll scan your passport one last time before leaving the station.

 

 
Zhengzhou

 

Many stations are enormous, so allow another 10–15 minutes to reach the metro, taxi rank or ride-hailing pick-up area after leaving the train.

If you're continuing your journey by train, look out for signs for the transfer channel. At some stations you can move directly from the arrival area back to the departure hall without leaving the station or going through passport control and security again. It's a real time saver when changing trains.

 

 
Transfers can go up 

 

 
Direct channel from train to metro

 

Final thoughts

Travelling by high-speed train quickly became one of the highlights of my trip through China. The network is extensive, the trains are comfortable, the stations are modern, and the whole system is remarkably easy to use once you've done it for the first time.

As someone who regularly travels by Deutsche Bahn, I was especially impressed by the punctuality. Delays simply weren't part of the experience—almost. To challenge China's well-earned reputation, my very last train from Suzhou to Shanghai arrived four minutes late. Ironically, that was the biggest delay of my entire journey across the country.

 

 
Four minutes late - Deutsche Bahn counts delays only from 5+ min

 

Would I choose the train again over flying? Absolutely. You get to see much more of the country, arrive right in the city centre and, before you know it, the journey itself becomes part of the adventure.

If you're planning a trip to China, don't just use the high-speed railway to get from A to B—make it part of the experience.

 


Thursday, May 28, 2026

Xian: drums, bells, a mosque and the Terracotta Army

I arrived by train and took line 2 to the bell and drum towers and followed the instructions of my hostel leading me through the Muslim quarter.  

 

 Central Square with Bell Tower

 

My hostel was nice - quite hidden away - and I booked a room that offered a four people bed. It was a masonry base covered with a mattress - it was good and hard. 

 

 
My hostel at the end of the alley
 
 

The biggest bed I ever slept in

 

In the evening, I explored the Great Mosque - a lovely example of Chinese Muslim architecture and art fusion. The mosque was built in 742 AD and the several courtyards give it a secluded feeling. 


 

Wodden Memorial Archway and Stone Memorial Gateway 

 

 
The Minaret - different from the Minarets I have seen so far

 

  

other impressions from the courtyards 

  

 
The Phoenix Pavillion and the Mosque



Next were the Drum and Bell Towers that stand at opposite ends of the square. As the name says one has drums, the other bells. They were used for time info: morning (bell) and evening (drum). The building style is similar as both were built just 4 years apart in the Ming dynasty (built between 1380 and 1384).

 

Drum Tower 


Bell Tower 


 Bell Tower in the middle of a roundabout 

(access via underground walkway)


The next morning, I took a DiDi (Chinese Uber) to the Terracotta Army, that is about 40 km outside of the city. Arriving I had to wade through a sea of guides who offered their services and look for the entrance. Checking in with my passport, I paid 5 yuan for the electric shuttle to the next ticket check and finally was in. 


The Terracotta Army


Area overview

In 1974, farmers drilling a well discovered the Terracotta Army and then excavation started. There are three pits with figures and an exhibition hall to visit. The army was created to guard emperor Qin Shi Huang in the afterlife.


Pit 1  

 

Pit 1 is the biggest (more than 200 m long), most impressive and also the most crowded. It’s usually the one featured in photos. After a quick look from the front, I moved along the side and tried to avoid the big groups to get some better glimpses. The infantry, chariots, and horses are lined up in precise military ranks, offering a remarkable glimpse into the military organisation of Emperor Qin Shi Huang's army.

 

Standing in neat rows: soldiers and horses 
  

restaurated soldiers


Pit 2 is L-shaped and contains more than a thousand figures of soldiers and horses. Most of them smashed and covered by the mud of time. Excavation is still ongoing and some of the reconstructed soldiers are displayed around the pit. This pit is known for its diversity of military units that would have fought together.

 

 

Rich in detail 


Pit 3 is the smallest of the three pits and is believed to have served as the command headquarters for the entire Terracotta Army. It contains just 68 warriors, a ceremonial chariot, and several horses. Unlike the larger battle formations in the other pits, the layout suggests this was where high-ranking officers directed military operations, making it an important piece of the overall complex.

 

 

Pit 3 - Command Centre 


What makes the Terracotta Army so remarkable is the incredible individuality of the figures. Each warrior has unique facial features, hairstyles, and expressions, demonstrating the extraordinary craftsmanship of ancient Chinese artisans. Standing before the excavation pits is an unforgettable experience and offers a glimpse into the ambition and power of China's first emperor.


When you exit the pit area, you cannot return the same way as you came. Instead you are led through an entertainment park of streetfood, restaurants and souvenir stalls. It takes significant time to return to the entrance and hand back your audioguide. There is also a shuttle bus station to the mausoleum.

 

 

 

Part of the Entertainment Park on the way to the exit 


Located about 1.5 kilometres west of the Terracotta Army pits is the Mausoleum of Qin Shi Huang, the burial site of China's first emperor. Constructed over nearly 40 years by hundreds of thousands of workers, the massive earthen mound conceals what is believed to be an elaborate underground palace. Ancient historian Sima Qian described the tomb as containing rivers of flowing mercury, a ceiling decorated with the stars, and intricate mechanisms designed to protect it from intruders. Although scientific surveys have detected unusually high mercury concentrations in the surrounding soil, the central burial chamber has never been excavated. Archaeologists continue to leave it undisturbed until preservation techniques are advanced enough to protect its priceless contents.

 

Battery Bus Ticket

 

The area is even vaster than the one of the army and I highly recommend to pay the 15 yuan (less than 2€) for the battery bus driving you up to the different buildings of interest and pick you up on the other side of it. 

One of the highlights of the mausoleum complex is the Bronze Chariots Exhibition Hall. This modern underground museum houses two exquisitely crafted half-size bronze chariots and their teams of horses, discovered in 1980 just west of the emperor's tomb. The chariots were found shattered into thousands of pieces and took many years to painstakingly restore. Today they are regarded as some of the finest bronze artefacts ever unearthed in China, with astonishing detail in the harnesses, umbrellas, decorations, and even the facial expressions of the horses. Many visitors consider this exhibition to be every bit as impressive as the Terracotta Army itself, so it is well worth allowing extra time to explore it. 

 

Reconstructed chariots 


After an exhausting day, I returned to Xi'an and got a glimpse at the Giant Wild Goose Pagoda. Built in 652 AD during the Tang Dynasty, it was constructed to house Buddhist scriptures brought back from India by the famous monk Xuanzang and remains an important symbol of the city's rich Buddhist heritage.


 
Giant Wild Goose Pagoda


Later wandered through the Muslim quarter, haggled a bit for souvenirs and a power bank in Huajue Alley - a charming pedestrian street lined with traditional buildings, local food stalls, and small shops. I ended the day with a foot bath and massage.

 

Entrance to Huajue Alley

 

Relaxing from all the walking with a foot bath and massage

 


The next morning, I returned to the train station to go to Yichang for my Yangtze river cruise.