Monday, November 4, 2013

Lo Manthang - capital of the Hidden Kingdom of Lo (Mustang)

We started exploring Lo Manthang after our return from Garphu. On that afternoon, we concentrated on the shop of our lodge owners and on the street our lodge was in. 


Lo Manthang - photo by S. Klein

Lo Manthang - the capital of Lo (Mustang) - was founded by King Amepäl. Before, the people lived in caves and the king wanted a better life for his son, so he searched for a good place to build a city. According to a dream he threw four cups of yoghurt in the four directions, but only the one in the south landed upside down, unbroken and with all the yoghurt still inside. There he built the palace that was known as Mönthang - the realized dream.

Snow covered mountains on the horizon, view to the summer palace

The niece of the owner first showed us the shop in the lodge where we bought necklaces, earrings and postcards. Then she led us and some other tourists to a big room in their family house that was filled with more souvenirs: vases, religious items and many more things that were richly decorated. I was not sure if it was allowed to export all those things. 


Our lodge with the souvenir shop

The evening we spent with some other groups in the dining hall. Late in the evening, the women of the owner family left for their own home that was within the walled city. In all the other lodges so far, the family always lived also in the lodge. 


The next morning after breakfast, we saw three yaks being driven along our street - one of it was to be slaughtered in the courtyard of our lodge owner. 


The three Yaks - photo by S. Klein

We did not wait to see, but went with the niece who was our guide for Lo Manthang. We entered the walled city through the north gate and then kept to the right. 


We visited the Chöde Monastery - a big compound with a school and the only monastery that was still featuring a monastic life. The young boys had a break and were playing all kind of games in the yard. 



Playing in the sun - photo by S. Klein

What will be his next move?

We entered two prayer halls in the compound and the museum that housed a collection of religious and household items of the region and some local costumes. 


Prayer Hall - photo by S. Klein

Streets of Lo Manthang - photo by S. Klein

We walked through the narrow streets to the next monastery - Jampa Lhakang. That was a three-story Maitreya temple with a big Buddha Maitreya statue in the middle that reached over more than one floor. The first floor was forbidden for visitors, the second was allowed to enter and there were fantastic mandalas on the walls - more than 80 of very fine quality from the 15th centuries that were restored lately. To conserve them and for religious reasons photography was not allowed.

Jampa Lhakang

From the terrace around the monastery we had a fantastic look over the roofs of Lo Manthang. The wood on the roofs was not meant for firing an oven but was a sign of the wealth of the family.


The roofs of the walled city

Chörten

Across from Jampa Gompa was the backside of the king's palace. According to our lodge family the king was sick and treated in Kathmandu. We followed the streets to the last monastery - the Thubchen Gyälwai Phodrang (Palace of the victorious Buddha). Passing the entrance that was guarded by four big figures of the Lokapalas (Guardians of the four directions) we came into a big hall. It was the biggest that we have seen in Mustang. As it was under reconstruction all the furniture was piled up in one corner. There were several big terra-cotta figures of the different holy gods. 


Palace - front entrance


on the terrace of Jampa Lhakang



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