About 5 years ago, the Indian press covered a movie called "3 idiots" a lot, so when I returned to India, I bought the DVD and the book it is based on - "5 Point Someone". The movie is one part college movie and one part road trip from Delhi to Shimla, Ladakh and finally Pangong Lake. The scenery was fantastic, so I decided to see all those places in reality for once.
In the morning, I got a call telling me that one of the group going to Pangong Lake got sick and that the trip is cancelled. So I headed out in search of a different group to join for the tour. Luckily, after questioning around for half an hour, I found two Indian women who were scheduled to leave in an hour. I returned to the hotel, grabbed my daypack and off we went. The first leg of the trip was the same as to the Takthok Gompa - before leaving the main highway and heading to the pass, we stopped to have our permits checked - there are checkpoints all around.
On the way up to Chang La (5360 m), we often had to stop on the narrow mountain road as a military convoy with more than 50 trucks made its way down. We already could see them from far like ants coming down an anthill. The lake is a border with China which explains the vast military presence and the off-limits areas.
In between the pass and the lake, there is a military post and a little village where we stopped for a small lunch - just some Maggi noodles. Unfortunately, the shop did not even have a toilet. Further down the road, there was a Marmot spot and we stopped to take some pictures with the animals who showed.
We found three more camps at the lake and the Indian ladies negotiated the price and we got the tents for 1000 INR including dinner and breakfast. After unpacking, we enjoyed the view of the lake and some tea in front of the tents.
Before dinner, we walked at the bank for a while and then met other travelers in the big tent for dinner. As it became very cold, we retired early and snuggled up in our beds. The tents were quite luxurious with a big bed and an off-bathroom-tent with toilet and sink with running water.
The next morning, we enjoyed the lake, breakfast and a slow start to the day. We had to go back all the same way. Stopping less for taking pictures but again for lunch at the same spot. After we reminded our driver that we wanted to see the Thiksey Gompa and the Shey Palace - he started to drive recklessly and the car and the breaks were not really up to this. One of the Indian ladies complained about his driving and the it got a bit better. At the highway later, he returned to Formula One driving.
Arriving at Thiksey Gompa, we enjoyed the return to civilization - modern bathrooms and restaurant. I got myself a pancake with nutella and banana. Then we entered the monastery that was very big and had several prayer halls. When the clock hit 4 o'clock, the monks got out and closed the doors to the prayer halls and taking their tea break. We waited 15-20 minutes for them to return, so we could visit the rest of the monastery.
By 6:30 pm, we returned to Leh and the sun set for the night. I booked my flight to Srinagar for one of the following days as internet was finally working.
3 idiots Cafe at Pangong Lake
In the morning, I got a call telling me that one of the group going to Pangong Lake got sick and that the trip is cancelled. So I headed out in search of a different group to join for the tour. Luckily, after questioning around for half an hour, I found two Indian women who were scheduled to leave in an hour. I returned to the hotel, grabbed my daypack and off we went. The first leg of the trip was the same as to the Takthok Gompa - before leaving the main highway and heading to the pass, we stopped to have our permits checked - there are checkpoints all around.
On the way up to Chang La (5360 m), we often had to stop on the narrow mountain road as a military convoy with more than 50 trucks made its way down. We already could see them from far like ants coming down an anthill. The lake is a border with China which explains the vast military presence and the off-limits areas.
Pangong Lake Road
Chang La (5360 m)
In between the pass and the lake, there is a military post and a little village where we stopped for a small lunch - just some Maggi noodles. Unfortunately, the shop did not even have a toilet. Further down the road, there was a Marmot spot and we stopped to take some pictures with the animals who showed.
Marmot spot
Soon we got a first glimpse on the lake from afar. After a 6 hours drive, we finally made it to the lake after a road full of potholes and bumps.
first glimpse
southwest bank of Pangong Tso
our group
Our driver wanted to called it a day and dump us at the first camp at the beginning of the lake. We took a look and listened to the prices (3000 INR per person). We wanted to see more of the lake and also shop a bit around to find other camp options. Reluctantly, he continued to drive us on - the good road ended about 1-2 km outside the first camp and some kilometers further we completely got off the road as no vehicles were allowed further.
Nomadic Life Camp
We found three more camps at the lake and the Indian ladies negotiated the price and we got the tents for 1000 INR including dinner and breakfast. After unpacking, we enjoyed the view of the lake and some tea in front of the tents.
lake view
Before dinner, we walked at the bank for a while and then met other travelers in the big tent for dinner. As it became very cold, we retired early and snuggled up in our beds. The tents were quite luxurious with a big bed and an off-bathroom-tent with toilet and sink with running water.
my tent
my bed
my bathroom
The next morning, we enjoyed the lake, breakfast and a slow start to the day. We had to go back all the same way. Stopping less for taking pictures but again for lunch at the same spot. After we reminded our driver that we wanted to see the Thiksey Gompa and the Shey Palace - he started to drive recklessly and the car and the breaks were not really up to this. One of the Indian ladies complained about his driving and the it got a bit better. At the highway later, he returned to Formula One driving.
Thiksey Gompa
Buddha statue
The monastery was founded at the beginning of the 15th century and the monks belong to the yellow-hat-order (Gelugpa).
decoration
prayer book, bell and other utensils
The last stop before returning to Leh was Shey Palace. In the mid of the 17th century, a palace and monastery were built on a hill in Shey village. The palace serving as summer residence for the Ladhaki kings lies mostly in ruins now, while the monastery is still working.
Shey Palace
Entrance
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