A Yangtze River cruise seemed like the perfect way to experience a completely different side of China.
For four days, I travelled upstream aboard the Victoria Jenna, sailing from Maoping, near Yichang, to Chongqing.
Waiting for the bus at the nearby tea shop.
Although many cruises are advertised as departing from Yichang, boarding actually takes place in Maoping, about an hour's drive upstream. Victoria Cruises organised the transfer by coach, making the journey straightforward.
I booked the cruise online (https://www.asiaodysseytravel.com; and discussed at length with Amy via Whatsapp which cruise, ship, excursions I wanna have) and chose a Superior Cabin for single use. At 20.87 m², it was surprisingly spacious and featured twin beds, a private balcony and a bathroom with both a shower and a bathtub. After several hotel stays and countless train journeys, it was nice to unpack for a few days.
The passengers reflected both domestic and international tourism. There were several German tour groups, one Bulgarian group, many Chinese travellers, couples, families and a handful of solo travellers like me.
Day 1 – Boarding in Maoping
Our coach left Yichang at 6:30 pm and reached Maoping later that evening. Before boarding the ship, everyone had to pass through a security check similar to those at China's high-speed railway stations.
Once on board, I headed to my cabin before grabbing a quick bite to eat. Dinner on the first evening isn't included in the cruise fare. Instead, the ship offers a fixed menu at a fixed price. I gave it a try, but honestly, I didn't think it was worth the money.
Shortly afterwards, all passengers were invited to an introductory session. The crew explained how life on board worked, introduced the excursion programme, presented the daily schedule and covered practical information about the ship. It was a useful briefing that answered most questions before the cruise officially began.
Life on board
Every morning started with a cheerful welcome from our river guide Andy and Las Vegas entertainer Darby. Together, they introduced the day's programme, explained the excursions and kept everyone informed about what was happening both on board and along the river.
Meals were served buffet-style and exceeded my expectations. Apart from the first evening, all meals were included and offered a generous selection of both Chinese and Western dishes. The crew also paid close attention to dietary requirements and allergies, making sure every passenger had suitable options.
The evening entertainment included a colourful cultural fashion show and an entertaining crew talent show. While these performances were enjoyable, the daily programme was generally quite structured. Between organised excursions, announcements and scheduled meal times, there was always something happening.
What's included?
My cruise package included:
- Four days / three nights aboard the Victoria Jenna
- A Superior Cabin (20.87 m²) with twin beds, private balcony and bathroom with shower and bathtub
- Breakfast, lunch and dinner every day except dinner on the first evening
- The included shore excursions
- Daily onboard entertainment
Additional charges applied for optional excursions, drinks, Wi-Fi and gratuities.
Day 2 – Tribe of the Three Gorges and the Three Gorges Dam
Our first full day began with the optional excursion to the Tribe of the Three Gorges. Located in a beautiful valley surrounded by steep green mountains, the attraction recreates the traditions and lifestyle of the local Tujia people.
After returning to the ship, we continued to the included excursion at the Three Gorges Dam, the world's largest hydroelectric power station. The sheer dimensions of the dam are impressive, but I had expected more information about the engineering and technical aspects of the project. For me, it was interesting to see once, but I wouldn't visit it again.
One excursion I had particularly looked forward to was the Three Gorges Ship Lift, which allows cruise ships to bypass the dam by being lifted more than 100 metres. Unfortunately, this excursion wasn't available during my cruise, which was a real disappointment.
Only after returning from the dam excursion did the Victoria Jenna cast off from Maoping and begin the journey upstream towards Chongqing.
Day 3 – Through the Three Gorges
For many passengers, this is the highlight of the cruise—and rightly so.
The Yangtze River passes through the famous Three Gorges: Xiling Gorge, Wu Gorge and Qutang Gorge. Together they stretch for almost 200 kilometres and are famous for their dramatic cliffs, narrow passages and spectacular scenery.
As we sailed through Wu Gorge and later Qutang Gorge, our river guide Andy provided live commentary from the sun deck, pointing out landmarks, explaining the history of the region and sharing stories about life along the Yangtze. It really enhanced the experience and helped bring the landscape to life.
Smaller boats took us into one of the Yangtze's most beautiful tributaries, where local women guided us through the narrow gorge.
Besides introducing the area's nature and history, they also explained how entire villages had to relocate after the construction of the Three Gorges Dam raised the river level.
Their personal stories made the visit much more meaningful than simply admiring the scenery.
During the afternoon, I joined the optional excursion to White Emperor City, which became my favourite excursion of the cruise. The ancient hilltop complex is closely linked to the famous Chinese novel Romance of the Three Kingdoms. According to tradition, Liu Bei entrusted his son to Zhuge Liang here shortly before his death, making the site one of the most important historical and literary locations in China.
Be prepared for quite a workout, though. Reaching the top involves climbing a considerable number of steps. For visitors who prefer not to walk, sedan chairs carried by local porters are available. During my visit, the price was 100 Yuan for passengers up to 85 kg; above that weight, the price doubled.
White Emperor City is also home to one of China's most famous viewpoints. From here, you can photograph the scene printed on the back of the 10 Yuan banknote—something many Chinese visitors were just as excited about as I was.
Day 4 – Xiaoguanshan Culture Park and Wuling Mountain
The final full day began with the included excursion to Xiaoguanshan Culture Park. The park showcases the history, traditions and daily life of the people who have lived in the Three Gorges region for generations. Through reconstructed buildings, exhibitions and cultural performances, visitors get an impression of life before the construction of the Three Gorges Dam dramatically changed the landscape.
Although the visit was interesting, I have to admit I was slightly disappointed. When I booked the cruise, the itinerary included a visit to Fengdu Ghost City, which was later replaced by Xiaoguanshan Culture Park. Personally, I would have preferred the original programme.
In the afternoon, I joined the optional excursion to Wuling Mountain, which turned out to be another highlight of the cruise. We first descended the mountain by cable car before following a walking trail along the valley floor.
The real highlight came next: a beautiful walk through a spectacular gorge surrounded by steep cliffs, waterfalls and lush vegetation. Afterwards, we boarded a different cable car that carried us back up another mountain, where our coach was waiting to take us back to the Victoria Jenna.
If I were taking the cruise again, this would definitely be one of the optional excursions I'd book.
Upstream or downstream?
Many travellers wonder whether it's better to cruise upstream (Yichang/Maoping to Chongqing) or downstream (Chongqing to Yichang).
I deliberately chose the upstream itinerary because it fitted perfectly into my travel plans. After arriving in Chongqing, I continued my journey by high-speed train to Chengdu, making this the most logical route for me.
Downstream cruises are usually slightly shorter because the ships travel with the river current. On the other hand, travelling upstream allows the scenery of the Three Gorges to unfold gradually, making the journey itself feel like part of the experience.
Which optional excursions are worth it?
If I had to choose again, this would be my personal ranking:
- ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ White Emperor City – My favourite excursion. Rich in history, spectacular views and home to the famous viewpoint featured on the back of China's 10 Yuan banknote.
- ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Wuling Mountain – Stunning scenery, two cable car rides and a beautiful walk through the gorge. Highly recommended.
- ⭐⭐⭐ Tribe of the Three Gorges – Beautiful surroundings and enjoyable performances, but the attraction itself felt rather artificial.
- ⭐⭐⭐ Shennong Stream – Worth doing once, mainly because of the stories told by the local guides about the relocation of entire communities after the construction of the Three Gorges Dam.
- ⭐⭐ Three Gorges Dam – Impressive in size, but I had expected a more technical and informative visit.
- ⭐ Three Gorges Ship Lift – Unfortunately unavailable during my cruise. If it's operating during your visit, I'd seriously consider booking it.
Would I recommend the cruise?
That depends on what you're looking for.
The Victoria Jenna offers spacious cabins, good food, friendly staff and well-organised excursions. However, don't expect four days of complete relaxation. Every day follows a fairly rigid schedule with organised tours, fixed meal times and regular announcements. Guides carrying loudspeakers keep everyone together and explain exactly where to go and what to do. Together with the large number of passengers on board, I occasionally found the experience quite demanding rather than relaxing.
Personally, I wouldn't want to spend more than four days on this type of organised cruise.
I think the cruise is an excellent choice for travellers who enjoy organised holidays where everything is arranged for them. Independent travellers and especially solo travellers may occasionally find the programme a little restrictive.
That said, sailing through the Three Gorges was undoubtedly one of the highlights of my entire China trip. Standing on deck while the Victoria Jenna passed between the towering cliffs of Wu Gorge and Qutang Gorge, listening to Andy's commentary and watching the scenery slowly unfold, is the memory that will stay with me long after the excursions have faded.
Would I do it again? Probably not. Am I glad I experienced it? Absolutely.
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