I arrived by train and took line 2 to the bell and drum towers and followed the instructions of my hostel leading me through the Muslim quarter.
Central Square with Bell Tower
My hostel was nice - quite hidden away - and I booked a room that offered a four people bed. It was a masonry base covered with a mattress - it was good and hard.
The biggest bed I ever slept in
In the evening, I explored the Great Mosque - a lovely example of Chinese Muslim architecture and art fusion. The mosque was built in 742 AD and the several courtyards give it a secluded feeling.
Wodden Memorial Archway and Stone Memorial Gateway
other impressions from the courtyards
Next were the Drum and Bell Towers that stand at opposite ends of the square. As the name says one has drums, the other bells. They were used for time info: morning (bell) and evening (drum). The building style is similar as both were built just 4 years apart in the Ming dynasty (built between 1380 and 1384).
Bell Tower in the middle of a roundabout
(access via underground walkway)
The next morning, I took a DiDi (Chinese Uber) to the Terracotta Army, that is about 40 km outside of the city. Arriving I had to wade through a sea of guides who offered their services and look for the entrance. Checking in with my passport, I paid 5 yuan for the electric shuttle to the next ticket check and finally was in.
The Terracotta Army
In 1974, farmers drilling a well discovered the Terracotta Army and then excavation started. There are three pits with figures and an exhibition hall to visit. The army was created to guard emperor Qin Shi Huang in the afterlife.
Pit 1
Pit 1 is the biggest (more than 200 m long), most impressive and also the most crowded. It’s usually the one featured in photos. After a quick look from the front, I moved along the side and tried to avoid the big groups to get some better glimpses. The infantry, chariots, and horses are lined up in precise military ranks, offering a remarkable glimpse into the military organisation of Emperor Qin Shi Huang's army.
restaurated soldiers
Pit 2 is L-shaped and contains more than a thousand figures of soldiers and horses. Most of them smashed and covered by the mud of time. Excavation is still ongoing and some of the reconstructed soldiers are displayed around the pit. This pit is known for its diversity of military units that would have fought together.
Rich in detail
Pit 3 is the smallest of the three pits and is believed to have served as the command headquarters for the entire Terracotta Army. It contains just 68 warriors, a ceremonial chariot, and several horses. Unlike the larger battle formations in the other pits, the layout suggests this was where high-ranking officers directed military operations, making it an important piece of the overall complex.
Pit 3 - Command Centre
What makes the Terracotta Army so remarkable is the incredible individuality of the figures. Each warrior has unique facial features, hairstyles, and expressions, demonstrating the extraordinary craftsmanship of ancient Chinese artisans. Standing before the excavation pits is an unforgettable experience and offers a glimpse into the ambition and power of China's first emperor.
When you exit the pit area, you cannot return the same way as you came. Instead you are led through an entertainment park of streetfood, restaurants and souvenir stalls. It takes significant time to return to the entrance and hand back your audioguide. There is also a shuttle bus station to the mausoleum.
Part of the Entertainment Park on the way to the exit
Located about 1.5 kilometres west of the Terracotta Army pits is the Mausoleum of Qin Shi Huang, the burial site of China's first emperor. Constructed over nearly 40 years by hundreds of thousands of workers, the massive earthen mound conceals what is believed to be an elaborate underground palace. Ancient historian Sima Qian described the tomb as containing rivers of flowing mercury, a ceiling decorated with the stars, and intricate mechanisms designed to protect it from intruders. Although scientific surveys have detected unusually high mercury concentrations in the surrounding soil, the central burial chamber has never been excavated. Archaeologists continue to leave it undisturbed until preservation techniques are advanced enough to protect its priceless contents.
Battery Bus Ticket
The area is even vaster than the one of the army and I highly recommend to pay the 15 yuan (less than 2€) for the battery bus driving you up to the different buildings of interest and pick you up on the other side of it.
One of the highlights of the mausoleum complex is the Bronze Chariots Exhibition Hall. This modern underground museum houses two exquisitely crafted half-size bronze chariots and their teams of horses, discovered in 1980 just west of the emperor's tomb. The chariots were found shattered into thousands of pieces and took many years to painstakingly restore. Today they are regarded as some of the finest bronze artefacts ever unearthed in China, with astonishing detail in the harnesses, umbrellas, decorations, and even the facial expressions of the horses. Many visitors consider this exhibition to be every bit as impressive as the Terracotta Army itself, so it is well worth allowing extra time to explore it.
After an exhausting day, I returned to Xi'an and got a glimpse at the Giant Wild Goose Pagoda. Built in 652 AD during the Tang Dynasty, it was constructed to house Buddhist scriptures brought back from India by the famous monk Xuanzang and remains an important symbol of the city's rich Buddhist heritage.
Later wandered through the Muslim quarter, haggled a bit for souvenirs and a power bank in Huajue Alley - a charming pedestrian street lined with traditional buildings, local food stalls, and small shops. I ended the day with a foot bath and massage.
Entrance to Huajue Alley
Relaxing from all the walking with a foot bath and massage
The next morning, I returned to the train station to go to Yichang for my Yangtze river cruise.
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