Panama: Tigerente, canal and hat

Ever since I first heard the story of “Oh, wie schön ist Panama” (Oh, how beautiful is Panama) as a child, Panama had a certain magic to it—the promise of adventure, discovery, and, of course, the legendary Tigerente. Arriving here felt a bit like stepping into that book, only with fewer talking animals and far more humidity.

Book cover (from Amazon)

And yes, the famous Panama hat that shows up on every postcard? It’s not actually from Panama at all—it’s originally Ecuadorian. But it became world-famous when canal workers, travellers, and even Theodore Roosevelt wore it here. Panama didn’t invent the hat, but it gave it its global stage. I got my Panama hat as earrings.

More than just a Panama hat

I squeezed a lot of Panama into a few days. It started with a long and beautiful day trip to the San Blas Islands, booked via GetYourGuide. After an early pickup and a winding drive through the hills, we switched to a small boat in Cartí and spent the day hopping between white-sand islands and clear turquoise water. 

Stop in the hills to the port

a boat like ours

By our vote, the first island we stopped to take on two passengers would have been our island of choice. Our real first where we got off the boat was nice and enjoyed the water. The next stop was in shallow blue water with white sand. Lunch and final (party) island did not convince us: crowded and surrounded by trash fields. Lunch was simple and fresh, and the company was great—including two American ladies I’d later meet again.

Island One

Stop 2: shallow waters

Stop 3: Lunch

Stop 4: the Party island

The next day I joined a six-hour tour to and partly through the Panama Canal. Gliding past giant container ships in the locks felt strangely calm—slow engineering in motion. The real scale hits only when you float right beside these steel giants: the canal moves roughly 5% of global trade, links more than 160 shipping routes, and still stands as one of the most ambitious engineering projects ever completed. Built by the United States after a disastrous French attempt, it opened in 1914 and instantly changed world logistics by cutting the Atlantic–Pacific journey by more than 13,000 km.

The Pacific Queen in the Miraflores lock (I'm on the ship)

We are followed in by this cargo ship which is hold in position by electric locomotives on the left and right.

Cargo ship

Miraflores lock and the Panama flag (to be seen everywhere)

The water is on level and the gates open.

With two ladies in Panama costume

After the cruise I headed to the Panama Canal Museum in the center. Halfway through the exhibits, the skies opened and a heavy tropical downpour trapped everyone inside. When the rain finally eased, the museum exit turned into my unofficial entry point into Casco Viejo.

Cathedral from outside

and from inside

I had arranged to meet the two Americans from San Blas for dinner, and we spent a relaxed evening catching up over good food and cold drinks. After saying our goodbyes, I let the warm night guide me through the narrow streets. Casco Viejo after dark has its own atmosphere: glowing balconies, quiet alleys, soft music in the distance, and souvenir shops filled with molas, masks, and canal miniatures. I wandered without hurry, simply enjoying the mood.

My dinner companions

Casco Viejo

The next day I caught a bus west to David. Bus travel in Panama is nothing like Europe: instead of quiet corridors and scheduled service stops, a rotating cast of vendors hops on and off selling empanadas, drinks, phone chargers—and occasionally even beauty products. The ride was long but entertaining, a moving snapshot of everyday life. I arrived by evening and spent a calm, uneventful night in the city.

My bus to David

Panama ended as it began—smoothly, unexpectedly, and full of small moments. Islands, rainstorms, history, Tigerente nostalgia, and long rides through green countryside. A short visit, but definitely a beautiful one. The real fun started with trying to get my exit stamp - stay tuned for the next post on the border crossing to Costa Rica.

Driving over the Panama Canal using the Bridge of the Americas