Jeju was the next stop on my round trip through Korea, reached by ferry from Mokpo, and it immediately felt different from everywhere else I had been. After disembarking, I took a bus from the ferry terminal to the car rental, stopping along the way at a local market for a simple gimbap lunch. It was an unremarkable meal in the best possible way—quick, practical, and grounding after the crossing.
From there I checked in to our rented apartment, dropped my things, and then went to pick up Cassie, my colleague from China, who would be sharing the Jeju part of the journey with me. Traveling together shifted the rhythm immediately. Jeju is not a place you simply pass through on foot or by bus; it invites movement, distance, and shared decisions. Once we had the car, the island began to open up.
Driving in Jeju deserves its own paragraph. The navigation system was impressively thorough, especially when it came to speed bumps. Every single one was announced in advance, with warnings popping up constantly. At first it felt helpful, then amusing, and eventually slightly absurd—there are just too many speed bumps. Still, it set the tone: Jeju may be about freedom and landscapes, but it is also about control, safety, and not rushing.
Our days mixed nature with the unexpectedly playful. Snoopy Garden and Camellia Hill were both largely outdoor experiences, spread across carefully designed landscapes. Walking through them felt relaxed and unhurried, with plenty of space, greenery, and quiet corners. They leaned into atmosphere rather than spectacle, encouraging slow movement, photos, and casual wandering rather than excitement.
By contrast, Moomin World was almost entirely indoors. It felt more controlled and weather-proof, designed for families and visitors looking for a contained, narrative-driven experience. After hours outside, its enclosed spaces and curated scenes made sense, reinforcing how Jeju balances open nature with attractions that function independently of season or sky.
At Osulloc Tea Museum, the landscape opened again: tea fields, minimalist architecture, and a sense of controlled calm. Green tea in various forms appeared inevitable, and we gave in gladly. I found my new favourite green tea (Wedding Green Tea) and combined it with Matcha Crepes Cake - delicious! We found several nice little cafés where we enjoyed a hot or cold drink on the island.
Of course, Jeju is also a volcanic island, and that presence is never far away. The dark stone, sudden rises in the landscape, and long views toward the sea all hint at the island’s origins. We did not go hiking, but came across volcanic formations across the island.
One of the highlights was a trip to Udo, a small island just off Jeju’s coast. There we rented a tiny electric car that felt almost toy-like on the open roads. Driving it around Udo was playful and surreal, the bright design contrasting with the deep blue sea and volcanic rock. It was one of those travel moments that doesn’t sound significant on paper but stays vivid in memory.
Evenings often ended with sunset views, the sky shifting slowly over the ocean while we stood somewhere exposed and quiet. Jeju knows how to stage a sunset without effort. You just have to stop the car, step out, and look.
Jeju felt spacious in every sense: geographically, emotionally, and culturally. Sharing it with Cassie added another layer—conversations, compromises, laughter, and different perspectives woven into the experience. After cities, shrines, and schedules, Jeju was movement, landscape, and breathing room.
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