This was the first stop of my round trip through Korea outside of Seoul. I arrived in Jeonju by high-speed train, then transferred to a bus bound for the Hanok Village. From there it was me and my large suitcase, dragged rather noisily over the cobblestone streets in the quiet early afternoon, the sound echoing a little too loudly between wooden houses. After leaving my luggage at the guesthouse, I headed straight back out to explore the historic village.
Hanok Village
Cathedral
Historically, Jeonju is deeply significant as the birthplace of the Joseon dynasty, which ruled Korea for over 500 years. The Yi royal family originated here, and that legacy still shapes the city today. You don’t need to chase dates and plaques to sense it; history in Jeonju is woven into courtyards, gates, and the choreography of everyday tourism.
Pungnammun Gate
The streets were already busy. Lots of Koreans and some foreigners, many dressed in traditional hanbok, roamed the area, drifting from sight to sight. Hanbok rental shops appeared on almost every corner, turning the village into a moving display of colour and fabric. I began my walk at Pungnammun Gate, one of the city’s historic entrances, and from there moved through slightly more modern blocks before being pulled back into the older heart of Jeonju.
Jeonju Gaeksa
I stayed in the Hanok Village, which is both Jeonju’s main attraction and its most curious space. Hundreds of traditional wooden houses form a neighbourhood that feels at once authentic and staged. My hanok stay was simple and warm, and in the morning I was served a Korean breakfast of fried eggs, rice, and endless cups of barley tea—comforting, understated, and memorable.
Jeonju by night
Hanok village
Inside the restaurant
That first afternoon and evening I wandered freely. I saw Jeonju Cathedral from the outside, its solid European lines standing in quiet contrast to the surrounding traditional architecture. Nearby, Gyeonggijeon Shrine anchored the city’s royal history, housing the portrait of King Taejo, founder of the Joseon dynasty. Inside the shrine grounds, the mood was calm and respectful; just beyond the gates, it shifted completely.
Massage & Foot bath
I spent some time resting at a Massage & Foot Bath café overlooking a busy crossing, watching waves of people spill out of hanbok rental shops in full traditional dress. Sleeves were adjusted, photos taken, laughter exchanged. The old district around the shrine is a fascinating mix: hanoks and rental shops interspersed with self-service photo studios, restaurants, fortune tellers, and even fortune-telling machines. Jeonju doesn’t just preserve history—it performs it, packages it, and lets people play inside it.
Fortune telling
The next morning I continued exploring, including Omok-dae, a modest but meaningful site connected to the origins of the Joseon dynasty. At 11 am I joined a free walking tour starting from Gyeonggijeon Shrine, led by a Korean woman with excellent English and a clear love for her city. The tour added depth to places I had already passed: the Cathedral, now explained through layers of religion and history, and the Fan Museum, where I learned that folding fans were traditionally used by men, while rigid fans were for women—a small detail, but one that made the past feel tangible.
Way leading up to ...
Omok-dae
Gyeonggijeon Shrine
After the tour, I picked up my luggage and headed to the bus terminal to catch my bus to Mokpo. Efficient, uneventful, and fittingly modern.
In Mokpo, I stayed near the ferry terminal in preparation for the crossing to Jeju. In the evening, I took a bus up to the Mokpo sign and the Mokpo Skywalk, had dinner nearby, and then walked back over the hill to my guesthouse as night settled over the city. The guesthouse owner didn’t speak any English but was a master of Google Translate, which turned every interaction into a slow, polite, and surprisingly effective conversation.
Sunset
From above the hill
All guests get a little Polaroid taken for the memory wall
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