We exited Samar through a gate with a dead goat head and went down the canyon. That day we understood the full meaning of "Nepali flat" - little bit up, little bit down.
As we spent our afternoons and evenings in the dinning halls we tried to dress warm (much more than during the day trekking) and ordered pot after pot of tea. We could choose between three or four sizes of pots and several tastes. Most popular with us were dudh chai, lemon ginger tea or hot lemon.
Exit from Samar
After 1,5-2 hours we reached the Bhena tea house and gratefully made a break before we crossed our first 4000 m pass.
Yamda La
From there we saw our lunch place - Syangboche - but it took much longer to reach it then we thought as the path made some detours.
We were rewarded by veg fried rice that gave us power for the meters to come. They also sold several other food, so I bought canned meat and a Mars bar.
Bhena La
Ghiling - a green oasis in the desert
Crossing another pass we headed to our destination of the day: Ghiling. We got our rooms and soon met again to see the very old monastery. We were very lucky to be present at a special puja ceremony - there were a lot of monks who played different loud instruments. One of the monks invited us for tea and we could ask several questions about the life in a monastery. In winter, most of the monks leave for the warmer regions and only one or two stay behind to take care of the building and people in the village.
Monks around the monastery
washing place with running water
Back at the guest house I took my first shower since Pokhara and even washed my hair. Hot water was a rare good and had to be ordered in the kitchen. Half an hour later I got a bucket half full with hot water that I could mix with cold water from the tab. Only downside was that the bathroom was not heated and even had a little window with mountain view but no glass. The wind blew me freezing dry in no time.
Mountain view from the bathroom
big tea pots
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